Sentinel Colorado

"It's all about how it is prepared, how it's elevated," says Paul Kahan, a James Beard award-winning chef in Chicago and self-professed cabbage freak.

This sensory cocktail isn't made in just any kitchen. And it can take hours to prepare — meaning only some chefs and true fans of the complicated recipe are willing to sharpen their knives and dedicate two days each year to stuffing the relatively unspicy chiles.

Marinades add flavor — what kind obviously depends on the ingredients and seasonings. You can make (or buy!) anything from a Mediterranean herb- and citrus-centered marinade to a ginger- and soy-based Asian marinade to an Indian, spice-infused yogurt marinade.

Salmon is often roasted in butter, but we wanted a healthier approach that would contrast with the fish's richness. So we made a bright tangerine relish perked up with spicy ginger.

Toasting large cubes of a crusty artisan-style baguette ensured that the bread didn't get too soggy once combined with the tomatoes. After toasting the bread, we added the coarsely chopped tomatoes as well as garlic, a small amount of sugar, and salt and pepper. Just before moving the skillet to the oven, we folded in most of the toasted bread and scattered the remainder over the top along with some Parmesan to create a crusty, savory topping that contrasted with the custardy interior.