›› If you’ve never stuck your nose in a fistful of flowery hops, I suggest you get that over with first and then return to read this story.
No? Well, then, hops are truly a breathtaking affair for a beer worshipper like me. A grip of the aromatic flower isn’t like inhaling lavender, jasmine or their Downy facsimiles. No, rolling hops in your hand to release the piquant flower’s oils should be every beer drinker’s beginning. The sharp but comfortable scent of a blooming hop is the starting point for what beer should always be: fresh and unique. In my opinion, Cascade and Centennial hops are to “beachwood aging” what coq au vin is to chicken nuggets. You just can’t replace the nose and finish of a special hop.
That could be why I gravitate toward India pale ales. The aromatic beer is very nearly akin to nuzzling a bouquet of the finishing flower. Although the alcohol content is usually high in most IPAs, the flavor is almost always perceptible above any grain taste from the high-point beer. In fact, the high alcohol content is tradition: The ale was originally developed to export from Britain to India — the high alcohol content kept the beer from expiring on the long trip — and was intended to keep in cask for nearly two years.
As it stands, IPAs aren’t meant to last in your fridge for two years; in my fridge they barely last for two hours.
And brewers around here make some of the best in the country. Dry Dock Brewing’s Hop Abomination, for starters, can stand up to the vaunted brews from anywhere in the country. The hops aren’t overly ambitious and don’t drown out the beer’s crisp citrus inspiration. The rusty colored brew is among one of my favorites from Colorado and for good reason, despite caramel flavors and rich malt, Hop Abomination smells exactly like rolled hops in the palm of your hand.
If bitter isn’t your bag, Breckenridge Brewery’s Lucky U IPA is among the very few oppo-IPAs around. The nutty flavor and earthy finish are at odds with the brew’s floral front. If the deep caramel color is a giveaway that Lucky U isn’t just another pale India ale, then the malt around your tongue should clue you in.
Boulder Beer Company’s Mojo IPA is among the category’s most subtle. A hint of honey and orange zest greet your palate after drinking the light-caramel beer. Although it has a dry, hoppy finish — with a less-than-subtle slug of alcohol, mind you — Mojo’s sweet side lingers around your tongue for a little longer.
Personally, I’m a fan of face-first dives into hops. That’s why New Belgium’s Ranger IPA is among one of my favorites. The crisp, traditional IPA is a floral feast from beginning to end. While the idea of rolling your tongue around a bitter brew might not be enticing to some, it’s a perfect afternoon flavor for me. Know that feeling when bitter pinches the side of your tongue? Yeah, that’s it.
Of course, no conversation about Colorado IPAs is complete without mentioning Durango-based Ska Brewing’s Modus Hoperandi. One of the state’s most critically acclaimed brews (Beer Critics give it a 97, Beer Advocate’s experts rate it a 95) Hop-erandi is a balanced brew that defies the category. Although the darker amber color suggests Hoperandi lives among the oppo-IPA class with Lucky U, the bright blast of finishing hops around your palate brings your taste buds right back to bitter. Orange and pine dominate the brew’s smell, though the hops shine in this stellar brew.
Colorado may not grow hops very well, but we sure know what to do with them.
Know your IPA:
Double/imperial IPA These are ambitious IPA brews, for sure. While traditional IPAs have always been high in alcohol content, double or imperial IPAs turn the “volume to 11.” These beers are extremely potent and can sometimes pack more than 9.0 percent alcohol by volume. Don’t say we didn’t warn you.
american-style ipa These are probably the most common IPAs on the shelves today. American-style IPAs are characterized by high to extreme hop aroma and flavor. Most craft brewers offer some type of an American-style IPA, so there’s plenty to pick from. American-style IPAs typically differ from the following category in their citrus tones and aromas.
English-style IPA Believe it or not, the original is actually relatively hard to find these days. English-style IPAs aren’t as hoppy as their colonial counterparts. They can also run a little darker than American-style IPAs, all the way to a rich amber or copper color.