›› You could say that Sue Hall grew up in a beer-friendly environment, which naturally led her to launch a brewery.

She would say she recently started Hall Brewing Company in Parker in spite of her upbringing.

“I grew up around beer because my father was a home brewer,” she said. “But I really didn’t like the smell of beer in the house.”

In fact, unlike your typical Colorado craft brewery CEO, she admits that many years passed where she sipped nary an ale.

Now the distinct perfume of hops, barley and yeast infuse the rural air at the handbuilt brewing barn she co-owns with her son, brewmaster Aubrey Hall.

Their new brews need to stand out in a crowd because the field is crowded. In Colorado, new brewpubs and breweries are opening nearly every week.

That’s no problem because there’s nothing shy about their trio of inaugural ales. Farmhouse Red, Farmhouse IPA and a downright chewy, ebony-hued Farmhouse Stout are as resolutely independent as the family that brews them.

You know Hall is truly a bootstrap effort when you see the brewery’s website, which brags about milling Colorado pine logs “with our Wood-Mizer portable sawmill.” The 5,800-square-foot Midwestern-style barn crafted primarily from Colorado beetle-kill pine sits on farm property the family owns on Vinegaroon Road east of Parker. It may look rural but inside is a 22-barrel brewhouse with six, 20-gallon fermenters and space for upgrades to 40 barrels and barrel-aging.

“We wanted the project to be as green as possible, and we wanted to produce hand-made products,” Sue Hall said. The spent grain from the beer-making goes to neighboring farmers to feed livestock. Water that they pull from a well for the brewing process is flowed into their pond.

“Being local was also important, and we’re using as many Colorado ingredients as possible,” she said. The farm is even producing some of the hops Aubrey uses to make the beer.

The Hall family are not newcomers to the neighborhood, either. The family built a house in Aurora 33 years ago where Sue Hall still lives.

“We had toyed with brewing for years,” Hall said, but it was after her son graduated from the brewmaster program at the University of California-Davis that the discussion became serious. “I decided I wanted to have a happy job, and there’s pleasure in building the place yourself on your own property and working to craft something.”

So far, Hall Brewing Co. is strictly a family labor of love. “Aubrey is the brewmaster. I take orders and deliver — but just the bottles. The guys deliver the kegs,” she said. Her daughter and son-in-law also help.

“It has required a load of work and sacrifice, but we’re going to have a product that’s something special,” Hall said.

The production is strictly, intentionally small scale, sustainable, and local. It will be a while before they open a tasting room, and there are no plans to add a canning line like many other craft brewers in the state. Hall’s three brews are available only in 22-ounce “bomber” bottles and kegs of various sizes at a handful of liquor stores in the Aurora-Parker area and on tap at a handful of restaurants.

Hall said she has been surprised as she’s researched Colorado’s booming brew culture.

“With the craft beer industry it’s more than just ordering some commercial drink. It’s certainly a young persons’ market and they’re a little more adventurous,” she said, noting that the new generation of suds lovers are interested in the story behind the beer and the guiding principles.

Down the line other brews will be introduced including an oak-aged Belgian-style “saison” and a bock. They would like to bottle a pilsner, but “that is really a lot more work to make than an ale,” Hall said, sounding very much the seasoned Colorado brew veteran.

While she may not have grown up with a passion for suds, Sue Hall said that she has developed a palate.

“I’ve learned to appreciate a good beer.” she said. “Now I drink our beer.”

A taste of three beers from the barn

Farmhouse Red Ale: For a big-boned craft beer, this one is relatively easy-sipping with a nose-grabbing aroma. Extra malt balances out the hops’ bright bitterness but it’s far from sweet or syrupy. This ale’s signature is a lingering caramel fizz on the palate that makes you wish you had a bratwurst to go with it.
Farmhouse IPA: Holy hops Batman! Pow goes the citrus-y bitterness on the palate, but in a pleasant way. In a state rife with overhopped India pale ales, the Farmhouse IPA is a refreshing change of pace that doesn’t curl your tongue. Match this one with grilled or smoked poultry or seafood.
Farmhouse Stout: Dark chocolate. French roast coffee. Burnt almonds. The aroma of this stout makes you think dessert. The taste of this inky, creamy confection is anything but sweet as a wall of finely tuned bitterness swells from the depths. It all comes together into a memorable finish with minimal effervescence. Sip this one very, very slowly.
Sold at Chambers Liquors, Parker Payless, Cornerstar Wines and Spirits, Libations, Jordan Liquors and Stroh Ranch Liquors.
On tap at Cedar Creek Pub (Anschutz Campus), Jackson’s at Celebrity Bowling, and the Lowry Beer Garden.  Information: hallbrewingco.com; 303-507-5801