For a Thanksgiving change of pace, try pan-fried cranberry pancetta stuffing cakes. (AP Photo/Matthew Mead)

And you thought there were only two ways to cook stuffing — roasted in the bird (called stuffing) or baked in a casserole dish (called dressing).

The problem with both of those methods is that only some of the stuffing gets deliciously crisp; the rest tends to be mushy. Our solution? Don’t cook it in the oven at all. This recipe mixes brioche, cherries and pancetta for a genuine stove-top stuffing.

The second recipe for cornbread and portabello stuffing can be baked as a casserole as a vegetarian side dish.

PANCETTA BRIOCHE CHERRY STUFFING

6 ounces pancetta, chopped

1 tablespoon chopped capers

1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage

8 cups cubed brioche (or other bread)

1 3/4 cups low-sodium chicken or turkey broth

3 eggs

3/4 cup chopped dried cherries

4 tablespoons butter, divided

Coat a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with cooking spray. Line the pan with parchment or waxed paper, leaving an overhang on the edges of the pan.

In a large sauté pan over medium heat, cook the pancetta until crispy, about 8 minutes. Add the capers and sage and continue to cook until crispy and lightly browned, about 4 to 6 minutes. Add the brioche and cook until lightly toasted. Remove the pan from the heat.

In a small bowl, whisk together the broth and the eggs. Stir the broth mixture and the cherries into the brioche mixture. Spoon into the prepared pan. Press the brioche mixture to create an even layer. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

Using the overhanging paper as handles, lift the stuffing in a single block from the pan and set on a cutting board. Cut the stuffing into 16 pieces.

In a large skillet over medium-high, melt half of the butter. Set eight of the stuffing pieces into the pan and fry for 3 minutes per side, or until golden and crispy. Transfer to a plate, then repeat with remaining butter and stuffing. Finished stuffing can be kept warm in a 200 degree oven. Make about eight servings.

CORNBREAD PORTOBELLO DRESSING

4 large portobello mushroom caps, diced

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/3 cup olive oil

1 sweet onion, finely chopped

1 medium leek, green and white parts, washed and sliced

1 medium carrot, peeled and grated

1 large celery stalk, finely diced

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary

2 1/2 cups cubed cornbread (homemade or from mix)

Vegetable broth, as needed

Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt the butter and add olive oil. Add the onion, leek and mushrooms and saute until tender, about 9 to 10 minutes. Add the carrot, celery, thyme and rosemary and cook until tender, about another 7 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and gently fold in the cornbread. If the mixture is dry, sprinkle in a bit of vegetable broth. Gently mix. Stuffing can fill the turkey or be baked in a casserole as a meatless alternative. Bake for about 20 minutes, or until lightly browned on top. Makes about eight servings.