DENVER | Bison burgers are about as synonymous with Colorado as green chile. Burger joints across the state offer bison on their menus as a leaner alternative to beef and a tastier substitute for turkey.
No two restaurants prepare bison the same, though. Chefs say there’s a veritable science to cooking the perfect bison burger.
Eric Palmer, lead cook at the Lowry Beer Garden, 7577 E. Academy Blvd., Denver, says bison burgers get rubbery and dry if they’re not cooked right. That’s why he prepares the burgers on a flat-top grill or griddle, rather than a typical charcoal-fueled barbecue. “That way, it cooks in its own fat and keeps its flavor, while giving it a nice char and caramelization on the outside,” Palmer said. The Beer Garden’s bison patties are seasoned with salt and pepper and mixed with a touch of beef. “It gives it that extra juice content and extra tenderness and flavor,” Palmer said. He suggests cooking the bison burger to medium temperature. Bison burgers are a popular item at the Beer Garden, which is also known for its brats. “At times, we definitely sell more bison than we do beef,” Palmer said.
The most popular add-ons to the bison burger are bacon, onion, mushrooms and blue cheese, called the “B.O.M.B.” topping, or the Montclair topping, a mix of swiss cheese, avocado, bacon, sliced tomato and mayo.
Some restaurants try to enhance the flavor of the bison with a unique combination of toppings. For example, at the Ale House at Amato’s, 2501 16h St. in Denver, waiters recommend toppings on either end of the sweet-and-savory spectrum. The “Mile High” bison burger is served with duck bacon, jalapeno goat cheese, caramelized pomegranate arils and seasoned onions strings. For those more daring customers, the Ale House offers a bison burger with creamy peanut butter, chopped bacon and homemade berry jam.
The bison burger is the star of the plate at My Brother’s Bar, 2376 15th St., Denver. Less is more when it comes to toppings, said Charlie Burkhalter, general manager. Anything more than swiss cheese, lettuce, tomato and onions might be overkill, but customers can add mustard, ketchup, pickles and relish if they desire, Burkhalter said.
Like the Lowry Beer Garden, cooks at My Brother’s Bar prepare each unseasoned 6 ounce bison patty on a flat top grill. Charbroil grills tend to overcook the meat, he said.
“It’s all in the technique, because it’s really lean,” Burkhalter said.
The leanness of bison has appealed to health-conscious customers for decades, but sales of American Buffalo meat have increased significantly since 2003, according to the National Bison Association.
That might be because bison is low-calorie and lean, and has a more rich flavor than beef.
According to the United States Department of Agriculture, 100 grams of raw bison contains about 110 calories and 1.8 grams fat. The same amount of raw beef contains about 290 calories and 24 grams fat.
Reach reporter Sara Castellanos at 720-449-9036 or sara@aurorasentinel.com.
Preparing Bison
Unlike beef, bison is lean and lacks fat marbling, which means it’s easy to overcook it and dry it out. Here are some tips on cooking bison, from the United States Department of Agriculture’s website.
• In general, bison should be cooked using low heat (325 °F) and longer cooking times.
• Braising or other moist cooking methods are recommended for bison roasts and steaks.
• For thin-sliced bison, use quick cooking methods such as broiling and pan frying.
• Cook raw ground bison to an internal temperature of 160 °F as measured with a food thermometer.
• Cook all raw bison steaks and roasts to a minimum internal temperature of 145 °F as measured with a food thermometer before removing meat from the heat source. For safety and quality, allow meat to rest for at least three minutes before carving or consuming. For reasons of personal preference, consumers may choose to cook meat to higher temperatures.
• Less tender cuts should be braised (roasted or simmered with a small amount of liquid in a tightly covered pan) or stewed.
For more information, visit fsis.usda.gov.