“Winter beer” is a lousy category. That presupposes there’s a “summer beer” category and that’s really not a thing either. There’s good beer and bad beer, and most “winter beer” is bad beer. It’s the season that bludgeons you with over-malted, potpourri-smelling, banana-bread beer, because for some reason you’re looking to dull your mind, body and tastebuds for 4 months until winter lifts and you can shave your hibernation beard.
Meet Great Divide’s Hibernation Ale. (Tough segue, I know.) Mostly speaking, Great Divide might be one of my favorite macro-micros in Denver right now. The beer is super easy to find, and there’s not much in their lineup that I don’t like. (Lasso is delicious.) Hibernation Ale is one of the best winter beers around right now simply because it’s still a beer first.
Yes, it’s a little maltier. It’s also a little stiffer at 8.7 percent ABV. But it’s still a beer, and the hops still fight their way from the bottom of the rich amber beer all the way to your nose. It’s tasty and doesn’t reek of cranberry-pine-wreath-gross like other winter beers. (I swear, some brewers look at winter beer like Sandra Lee looked at Kwanzaa Cake.)
Pro-tip: Great Divide’s tasting room in Downtown Denver is seriously small considering the size of their operation. It’s still a great place to taste all their beers, but their growlers are the best/worst deal in the world. For beers below 9% ABV, a growler fill is $11 — a seriously good deal for 64 oz. of fresh beer like Hibernation. For beers above 9% that cost doubles to $22. Not awesome. (I’m almost positive the threshold is 9% and if it is, you should just go right now. I’ll wait for you to get back.)
WHAT: Great Divide’s Hibernation Ale
WHERE: Although Great Divide’s beers can be found just about anywhere, Hibernation Ale is a bit tougher to spot. Any bigger liquor store should be carrying it by now and beer specialty stores should have it. Of course, you could always go Downtown and get a growler.
WHY: It’s a winter beer that doesn’t get all stupid with the flavors of Christmas/Kwanzaa/Thanksgiving/Chanukah. Pure and simple, it’s a malty, hoppy ale that works well. It’s still balanced, completely drinkable (although not really sessionable, too much alcohol) and doesn’t assault your mouth for hours afterward.
WHAT IT REMINDS ME OF: Hard to say really, but if you can follow me here through my ACT comparison, Hibernation Ale is to winter beer as Dale’s Pale Ale is to American Pale Ale. It’s amplified and potent, but still balanced and enjoyable.
PAIR IT WITH: Beef and barley soup. Seriously hearty, but it’s still a soup and you won’t need to take a nap afterward. The Hibernation Ale stands up and holds its own too.